We woke to a wet and rainy Sunday but after our first full English breakfast of the trip we headed out in the relative dry after being dropped off with Jo and Sarah back in Ennerdale Bridge. The weather, although not looking great in the distance did manage to hold off as we made our way down the road and then onto a path running along the south side of Ennerdale Water (the most westerly lake of the Lake District). We realised that it was only a matter of time before the mist and rain at the head of the water caught up with us. Still, we were prepared!We soon caught up with several other C2C’ers but managed to get ahead—walking behind slow people would have only driven Tim mad! As we continued our way up, down and around the rocky path the weather worsened to the extent that we had to put on our waterproof jackets. Fortunately, it was more of a steady drizzle than a heavy downpour.
The path was straightforward enough although we had to grab onto the rocks on a couple of occasions, especially around the rocky outcrop of Angler’s Crag where the path rose steeply above us. Had the weather been clearer enough, the higher elevation would have provided us with views of Bowness Knot. But, not today!
The walk alongside Ennerdale Water seemed to take forever and the end couldn’t come quick enough so when we got there we managed to find a large tree to take shelter and have a rest.
After a short beak, we carried on. Beyond the end of the lake, we joined a track which lead us into a forestry plantation. By the time we had crossed a stile into a field and had arrived at the footbridge crossing the River Liza we were in full waterproofs. It was pouring down.
After crossing the footbridge, we climbed a steep slope to join the track towards Gillerthwaite.
We had hoped to take the alternative path to Black Sail YHA (via Red Pike, High Stile & Hay Stacks) but with the weather being so poor, there was no point. We wouldn’t have been able to take advantage of the views.
Instead we made our way along the track through the trees in Ennerdale Forest and passing several youth hostels. The weather tantalised us with several dry spots but no sooner had we taken off the waterproofs, we were putting them back on again.
Eventually Black Sail YHA came into sight and although not our final destination, it was certainly a welcomed landmark and more importantly, somewhere to take shelter, get something to eat and dry off!
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Wainwright was certainly correct in saying that the Black Sail hut was “the loneliest and most romantic of Youth Hostels” and it was for this very reason that we vowed that one day, we would return and stay there.
The hut was full of C2C’ers including Jo and Sarah. After stripping off the wet gear and the boots of course, we sat down in relative comfort to eat our lunch. We also made use of the hot drink facilities and left our money in the honesty box. On this occasion we were not tempted with the homemade cakes—someone has clearly thought about what walkers want and need!
After fuelling up with food and drying off (a little anyway), we walked away from the “comforts” of Black Sail to what was going to be our first challenge of the day—a steep and steady climb up the rocky slopes of Loft Beck. The path was relatively indistinct especially in the mist but we could just about make out the path winding its’ way around the hillside.
Although the walk up towards the top wasn’t too difficult, the weather didn’t make it very pleasant. It was just a case of head down and keep going….until we reached the top—a climb of 1,000ft in half a mile!
Once we had reached the top, we were not rewarded with any views (we should have been able to see Haystacks, Wainwright’s favourite peak and the one where his ashes were scattered).
Looking back down towards the misty valley floor and from where we had come from, we could see the many other C2C’ers making their way to the top…all as wet and as weary as us!In the midst of the fog, we met a couple of walkers who appeared to be lost. Tim in usual fashion was soon able to point them in the right direction and the look of relief on their faces was clear to all.
Jo and Sarah soon caught us up so we decided to walk with them. As with what seems to be all our walks, Tim always comes across someone who knows one of his friends and this time was no different. It turned out that Jo knew one of Tim’s friends—Joe!We followed the path, which was barely visible due to the poor weather until we joined the easy but winding path down towards the Honister Slate Mine. The remnants of the slate quarrying clearly visible at every turn of the path.
By the time we had arrived at the bottom where the visitor’s centre was, the weather was a little brighter. This didn’t stop us from popping into the café for a warming cup of hot chocolate and some shortbread.
From the mine we followed what was the old toll road towards Seatoller and in doing so, we left the grey world of the Honister Slate Mine, soon entering the emerald green Borrowdale Valley. The weather picked up a bit and the stroll through Johnny’s Wood and by the side of the River Derwent was actually quite pleasant.
We approached Rosthwaite just as it started to rain but were able to find shelter under the bus stop where we again put on our waterproof jackets.
After a short stroll (well, it would have been had the weather been nice!) alongside Stonethwaite Beck, we soon came across our turning over the Beck to Stonethwaite, a small village and home to our B&B for the night—Stonethwaite Farm (a traditional working fell farm, which has approximately 500 lowland acres and 3,000 fell acres. It has in the region of 800 Herdwick sheep, a hardy mountain breed, belted Galloway cows, rare breed pigs, a variety of hens, which roam freely round the farm, horses, sheep dogs and even some guinea pigs!)We were shown to our gorgeous room by Tracey Gill, the owner who was very friendly and welcoming.
There wasn’t much in Stonethwaite, but there was a pub—the Langstrath Country Inn. After a nice shower, we headed down for a drink and something to eat. Although it had been raining (and, hadn’t we known it?), it was warm so we sat outside and admired the gorgeous surrounding fells.
After a drink, we headed inside to get something to eat. The food was delicious but having read the reviews beforehand, we knew this would be the case. Whilst in the Langstrath, it was there that we met Sarah and Richard who were also doing the C2C. As they were eating, we only had a quick chat before heading back to the B&B for the night.
Wainwright’s Coast to Coast – The Planning click here
Day 1 (St.Bees – Ennerdale) click here
Day 2 (Ennerdale – Stonethwaite) click here
Day 3 (Stonethwaite – Patterdale) click here
Day 4 (Patterdale – Shap) click here
Day 5 (Shap – Kirkby Stephen) click here
Day 6 (Kirkby Stephen – Muker) click here
Day 7 (Muker- Richmond) click here
Day 8 (Richmond – Ingleby Cross) click here
Day 9 (Ingleby Cross – Blakey Ridge) click here
Day 10 (Blakey Ridge – Grosmont) click here
Day 11 (Grosmont – Robin Hood’s Bay) click here
Keels 