Distance: 22.3 miles; 600ft elevation gain; 7:41:06 moving time; 20:40/mi average moving pace; 2,006 calories burned
After an amazing sleep in the comfiest of marshmallow beds (yes, the bed was so luxurious that it was just like sinking into a huge marshmallow), we set off on our penultimate day. Hopefully it would not be as long or as eventful as the previous!
Aberffraw is actually a delightful little village and has an amazing blue flag beach. It is considered to be one of the most stunning on Anglesey. It’s also steeped in history as it sits upon an old Roman fort although nothing remains above ground anymore. In the early Middle Ages, Aberffraw was the capital of the Kingdom of Gwynedd from c.860 AD until c.1170. Under the eponymous Aberffraw Dynasty it came to be the most important political centre in medieval Wales. The Llys remained the symbolic throne of the Kings of Gwynedd from the 9th century to the 13th century.
So, after a picture of the Aberffraw sign, we headed down to the path along the estuary. Hopefully today would not be as eventful, or as long!
At the end of the path, we turned up into an enclosed path before ascending the headland at Trwyn Du. This is what I would call coastal path walking – we were right on the edge of the cliffs. The weather wasn’t as great as it had been but it was dry nonetheless. The sea certainly did not look as inviting as it had done in the earlier days. Heading down to the shore at Porth Lleidiog, we crossed the beach and picked up the path on the other side along the cliff edge again.
We were soon on open headland and after passing Trwyn y Wylan we dropped down to the beach at Porth Cwyfan. Here we headed up to the small island of Cribinau where the most recognizable church on Anglesey, St. Cwyfan’s stands. Often known as the Church in the Sea (or eglwys bach y mor in Welsh), this medieval church dates back to the 12th century.
History time…… It’s a weird and perilous place for a church to stand but, according to a Jacobean map from 1636, it was originally at the end of the peninsula between the two bays of Porth Cwyfan and Porth China. The sea has slowly eroded the coast in the two bays enough that the peninsula was cut off, thereby turning it into an island. A causeway was built to the island to allow parishioners to get to the island.
After climbing up the precarious steps to have a look round, we climbed back down them and headed to a track which took us past the entrance of Anglesey Motor Racing Circuit. It was still relatively early in the morning and we had wondered who was screeching around the lanes at ridiculous speed – seeing the motor circuit put everything into perspective.
Shortly after crossing a field, we went through a kissing gate down to the coastline and past the rocks of Ynysoedd Duon. From here we continued along the enclosed path around the headland to Porth Trecastell. It’s a gorgeous little cove and I can see why there was a lady practising tai chi – so peaceful and calm. Also known as Cable Bay (to the English), it is so named because this is the place where telegraph cables linking Britain with Ireland and America reached land.
After crossing through the car park we continued onto the next headland via a tiny and narrow path perched right on the edge of the cliffs. As we followed the path along, we came across the entrance to Barclodiad Y Gawres, a Neolithic (circa 2,500 BC) burial chamber and one of the most famous prehistoric relics on Anglesey. It is an example of a cruciform passage grave of which a notable feature is its decorated stones (spirals, zig-zags and lozenges).
Continuing along the enclosed path, we reached Porth Nobla where we headed away from the beach to join a track to the car park at Tywyn Fferam. We walked through the dunes and then joined a track before joining the beach at Llydan which, due to the tide being out, we were able to cross it. We really had been very lucky with the tides.
From the beach, we crossed the stream and headed up to join Lôn Traeth Llydan. Carrying on along Lôn Traeth Llydan, we followed the road and joined the high street. We hadn’t been able to pick up any lunch so far so Tim popped into the local supermarket opposite the town clock in Rhosneigr and picked up some sandwiches, chocolate and a couple of cans of coke. We made our way down to “the Warren” which followed the boundary of RAF Valley. This area was like a warren with several paths heading off in all directions. Thankfully the coastal path was relatively clear.
Although not particularly scenic and with the various low flying fighter planes practising overhead, we found a spot to sit down where we had sandwich and a drink. Suitably refreshed, we made our way out of “the Warren” towards the Dunes before dropping down onto the massive beach of Traeth Cymyran.
It was on this beach that Rhosneigr’s most famous shipwreck occurred in March 1883. A tea-clipper and sister ship to the more famous Cutty Sark, the Norman Court was built in 1869 and was on the return journey from Java to Greenock (Scotland) carrying 1,100 tonnes of sugar before being blown of course and becoming trapped in Cymyran Bay. The heavy seas prevented the Rhosneigr lifeboat from launching and the crew were left clinging to the rigging until the following day. Another attempt was made by the Rhosneigr crew before the Holyhead team arrived to reach the stricken ship rescuing all but two of the 20 man crew. Sadly two died from exposure during the night.
We decided to take a small detour on the next section by heading up the road and therefore cutting out a big loop. However, after crossing the railway, we soon realised that we were heading in the wrong direction! Back-tracking on ourselves, we joined the road, this time heading in the right direction before re-joining the path and through a field towards the Inland Sea a short while later. Traversing this area wasn’t particularly easy going as we were chest high in ferns.
We finally emerged from the fern jungle before heading into the next field where we were aiming for a gap in the wall in the far corner. The instructions said to walk straight down the field but I started to walk diagonally across it. Tim was unsure so we headed down the field only to turn right along the field boundary and eventually to the gap in the wall…… say no more!
The path continued weaving its way past little cottages, around inlets, through fields and past an area of rushes. Finally the path reached a little dam at the Valley Tidal Doors. From here, we carried on along the path to cross the cob at Tyddyn Cob. We continued along through a field and an area of gorse before reaching the embankment. Eventually we joined the road and walked across Four Mile Bridge (actually only about 170 metres!) to arrive in the village of Four-Mile Bridge.
With almost 9 more miles to go we didn’t stop in the village (not that there was anything worth stopping for!). After crossing over onto Holy Island, we followed the path around the shoreline of the Inland Sea and through a marshy area. The next part of the walk took us through lots of overgrown vegetation and I mean lots of MASSIVELY overgrown vegetation. We followed what seemed like a particularly long path over wooden boards through an area of woodland.
After passing the lodge gate to the Bodior Estate, we came out onto a lane. Before heading up the road, we decided to take 10 minutes for a sandwich, a drink and quite frankly, a rest!
From our resting spot we headed on up the road and then turned left towards the Silver Bay Caravan Park. At the bottom of the lane we crossed a stone stile and headed over a field where we eventually joined an enclosed path up to the woodland. We followed the fenced path all the way along before coming out at Traeth Llydan or Silver Bay. We turned right and walked along the beach before taking a track up to a parking area.
We followed the coast and path through more gorse, down a hill, over three sleeper bridges before reaching the headland.
As we passed over a rise on the headland, the bay of Borthwen came into view. Upon reaching the bay, we crossed the beach heading towards a ramp off the beach. Further along, we headed up the hill towards the lookout station on the top before descending the other side past St.Gwefaen’s Well. After passing through another kissing gate (I really wish I had counted them all) we followed a large stone wall round Rhoscolyn head to Port Saint.
We continued on up the coastal path, descended a hill and went over a small causeway. Just south of Porth y Garan, we headed back up a hill alongside a stone wall before coming out by some stone gateposts at Porth y Garan. we eventually came out on an access road in the caravan park. We crossed the road, headed up a set of steps to join a well worn path following the coastline. At the end, we joined the road past Port Castell and Porth Diana towards Trearrdur.
Our hotel, the Seacroft Hotel was on route and soon upon us. Yay! One more day to go!
The Planning click here
Day 1: Holyhead – Cemaes Bay click here
Day 2: Cemaes Bay – Benllech click here
Day 3: Benllech – Llanfairpwllgwyngyll click here
Day 4: Llanfairpwllgwyngyll – Aberffraw click here
Day 5: Aberffraw – Trearrdur Bay click here
Day 6: Trearrdur Bay – Holyhead click here
Keels 
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