Day 4: Auchtertyre – Rannoch Moor (18 miles)
Auchtertyre — Tyndrum (6 miles, 9.6km). Total ascent: 248m, total descent: 263m max height: 334m. Terrain: Good paths and tracks with some moderate ascent and descent, but nothing unduly difficult and nowhere far from services. A straightforward day of glen and low pass walking amid outstanding mountain scenery.
Tyndrum —Bridge of Orchy (6 miles, 9.6km). Total ascent: 183m, total descent: 254m, max height: 334m. Terrain: Good paths and tracks with some moderate ascent and descent, but nothing unduly difficult and nowhere far from services. A straightforward day of glen and low pass walking amid outstanding mountain scenery.
Bridge of Orchy—Rannoch Moor (6 miles, 9.6km). Total ascent: 175m, total descent: 164m, max height: 323m. Terrain: This is a short, straightforward stage which acts as an introduction to the wilderness of Rannoch Moor.
Day 4….over half way!
Having had a rubbish night’s sleep, we wearily set off for the first main place of the day—Tyndrum. We joined the path by the River Cononish, crossed a tarmac road (private access to Strathfillan House, over a fine old bridge to the left).
An information board explained about Tyndrum Community Woodland, which was where we were now walking. We could already tell that it was going to be a tough day particularly after a bad night’s sleep. We passed a carved memorial bench for the battle of Dal Righ (‘King’s Field’) in honour of Robert the Bruce who was defeated here in 1306. We then joined a wide track before turning left up a narrow path. We then crossed the Crom Allt by a timber bridge along a path and into some pine woods.
During this first section of the walk, we encountered many of the straggling Caledonian Challenge Walkers. Most were friendly enough but despite some encouragement about the short distance that lie ahead for them, some were plain old grumpy.
As we approached Tyndrum, evidence of the old mines could clearly be seen with marker and information boards regularly littering the path.
After leaving Upper Tyndrum along the railway line, we came across a small shop which was the perfect opportunity to stock up and get some refreshments…. And to air and rest the feet for a little while. The shop, albeit it very little was a goldmine and like a tardis. It seemed to sell everything that you could wish for (probably except for the kitchen sink!).
After enjoying a rest on the conveniently placed bench outside the shop, we set off up the path, passing a Calendonian Challenge tent at the beginning.
The path was of no significance apart from one of the houses that was adjacent to it. The garden was full of weird and strange wooden sculptures. If the occupant was advertising his wares, I am not sure how many he would have actually sold as they were just really odd. I’m not sure where you would have put one.
We followed the old Drovers Road (the old Fort William Road, and how monotonous was it?) p towards a wooded valley—Allt Crom (“crooked steam”) which then lead up into Coire Thoin on the southern slopes of Beinn Odhar.
Shortly afterwards, the WHW leaves Stirlingshire behind for the last time and crosses into Argyllshire. The steepest slopes of Beinn Odhar were directly on our right. The path then crossed a railway line and the imposing mountain of a very misty Beinn Dorain came into view (oh no, it looks like rain ahead!).
The weather was however still gorgeous so we took the opportunity to have a break, rest the feet (yes again!) and have a drink of the magic potion—coke! Tim even took the chance of getting a few rays of sun by taking his shirt off!
After a short break, it was off again…on this part of the journey we met a guy called Chris who lived in Glasgow. He was only doing part of the walk as he only had a short break.
We passed under another small sheep creep this time passing under the Oban Railway. We then followed the old military road alongside the Allt Kinglass river with the West Highland Railway to our right.
The way then skirted the base of Beinn Dorain and bypassed the farm at Auch (not much else there!). We then crossed the Allt Kinglass via a very large stone bridge and followed the path along the lower Auch Glen.
After another few miles along a good vehicle track, we eventually approach the Bridge of Orchy just as the rain clouds approach us…quick run for cover! We finally took cover at the Bridge of Orchy train station… another opportune moment to have a buttie!
After taking shelter for a while, the rain stopped and we were good to go again. After leaving the shelter of the station (actually, it did stop raining and fortunately that was the last rain we would see), we soon arrived at the very impressive looking Bridge of Orchy Hotel. Having walked by the side of the hotel, we crossed the infamous bridge (but not without taking any photo’s).
On crossing the bridge we headed up the forest track through a plantation towards the height of Mam Carraigh. The ascent was slow and arduous but we were well rewarded with excellent views of Loch Tulla at the top.
At the cairn we took the opportunity of taking in the scenery (Rannoch Moor in the distance). Inveroran and Forest Lodge could be seen at the western end of the loch, among the scattered stands of trees and small conifer plantations. The Abhainn Shira was just about visible to the west, and the massive bulk of Stob Gabhar and its neighbours were very dominant to the northwest. and of course having a rest—that long drudge up to the top albeit relatively easy had taken its’ toll on our feet…
We then descended the path down to the road near the Inveroran Hotel which was a very welcoming sight and particularly for walkers (it even had its own Walker’s entrance!!).
A quick fuel stop was in order so we order pints of coke and mince in a large Yorkshire pud with mashed potato—delicious!
After tucking into a delicious and more importantly WELL EARNED “snack”, we headed on again along the Drover’s Road towards Rannoch Moor and 62 miles done!!
Now, you would have thought that the prospect of walking along a nice Drover’s road would have been welcomed after walking along such different terrain for the last 4 days but let me tell you—IT WAS A KILLER! The hardness of the tarmac on our feet only accentuated the pain that we were now starting to feel—maybe the leather boots and rucksacks were not the greatest idea—we then made the resolution to get some canvas walking boots for the next adventure (wherever that may be!)
The road soon lead to Victoria Bridge (yes another photo opportunity). As we carried on walking, we came across another way marker—proof that we were on the right rack! I’m not too sure what we would have done had we not been! Having passing Forest Lodge (the last building we would see for over 14.5km), we finally came to the end of the motor road and onto a vehicle track.
There was another board (number 5) in the vicinity of Forest Lodge relating to Telford’s Parliamentary roads.
The next section of the walk was to be the bleakest but the highlight of the walk. Rannoch Moor (Scottish Gaelic: Mòinteach Raineach /Raithneach) is a large expanse of around 50 square miles (130 km²) of boggy moorland. It is designated a National Heritage site.
The next section of the walk, although long, afforded us the most spectacular scenery and apart from the 3 conifer plantations which had been “man-made”, there is virtually no other sign of man!
We had already decided on where we should camp (after having looked at the contours on the map to ensure a flat spot and away from the bogs!). Our destination of choice was just north of the 2nd plantation—Lochan Mhic Pheadair Ruaidhe. However, upon arrival at said location, we found that the area was somewhat boggier than we had hoped and all plans to camp here went out of the window. This was not the idyllic lochside camping experience that we had expected (or had hoped for!). Never mind….
We had no choice but to carry on and find another camping spot. The next section is known as the Moss—a boggy area, spattered with many tiny lochans.
Soon after, we reached Ba Bridge, The mountain ranges on the left are those of the Black Mount, with Stpb Ghhabhar and Creise amongst the summits. The River Ba (River of the Cattle) runs underneath the bridge through a small gorge of red granite slabs.
We continued past the Drochaid ant-Saighdeir conifer plantation towards a low col a couple of miles ahead. Just past the plantation, we saw the cottage ruins just standing back off the track (and where we thought that we might be able to pitch the tent!). This was Ba Cottage. We went up the short path to see if there was room to pitch the tent—hooray, there was! What a place to camp—this was by far the highlight of my walk—wild camping on room to pitch the tent—hooray, there was! What a place to wild camp. This was by far the highlight of my walk so far (and would stll be upon completion….. Hindsight and all that!!). Wild camping on Rannoch Moor was an amazing experience and just epitomised “wild camping”.
They say location is everything…we had views of the snow-capped mountains (yes, even in June!), a lovely stream running by, a flat surface…..oh, what was that about location being everything—not in Scotland it isn’t! Damn those midges and the rain!!!
No sooner had we pitched up the tent, got the stove out and starting cooking (noodles and another one of Tim’s army ration packs—beef stew and dumplings this time!) than the rain started to come down and the midges invaded.
And, there were we looking forward to a civilised tea on the middle of Rannoch Moor! Anyway, we did get enough boiling water for the noodles and for Tim’s beef stew (which incidentally was…only OK but he seemed to enjoy it! I’ve always said that he would worry rats!!!).
Well, after the evening had been cut short by midges and the rain, there was only one other thing to do and that was to get an early (very early!) night. I don’t suppose it was too bad but it was a definite shame that we weren’t able to take advantage of our extremely remote and lovely location.
Day 1 (Milngavie – Balmaha) click here
Day 2 (Balmaha – Inversnaid) click here
Day 3 (Inversnaid – Auchtertyre) click here
Day 4 (Auchtertyre – Rannoch Moor) click here
Day 5 (Rannoch Moor – Kinlochleven) click here
Day 6 (Kinlochleven – Fort William) click here
A relaxing 2 days click here
Keels 