Day 3: Inversnaid (just north) – Auchtertyre
Inversnaid — Inverarnen (6.5 miles, 10.4km). Total ascent: 387m, total descent: 150m, max height: 252m. This is by far the roughest section of the Way, where the path makes a tortuous route along the side of Loch Lomond with many ups and downs. A hard walk but the scenery is superb.
Inverarnen—Auchtertyre (6 miles, 9.6km). Total ascent: 374m, total descent: 150m, max height: 252m. Terrain: The path and tracks are mainly well-surfaced, much of the way consists of an old military road. Moderate ascents and decents. The way bypasses Crianlarich to the west, the village of Crianlarich being the halfway point on the route.
Nearly Half Way!
After a broken but just enough night’s sleep, we were up early again for a third day of walking.
The morning breakfast wasn’t quite the leisurely one that we had in mind – thanks very much to the many thousands of midges (Scotland’s much loved friends!).
This was our first encounter with the horrid things and packing up, although done with military precision (there was a very specific way in which EVERYTHING went in the rucksacks!) was a nightmare. We zipped our waterproofs and hoods to maximum so that we only had the tiniest of visibility—yes, the midges were THAT bad.
After a very quick brew and a bite to eat (white bread, cheese and ham sandwiches from the farm as before!), we were on our way again.
It wasn’t long before we had some walking companions—a herd of wild goats.
The path continued through the woods, crossing numerous streams either by fords or by footbridges. One such stream, which is just opposite the tiny wooded islet of Island I Vow, marks the boundary between Stirlingshire and Argyllshire.
The walking was relatively straightforward although a set of very tall wooden steps were thrown in for good measure!
Carrying alongside the loch, we came to a large expanse of shore—a great time for a short break (and for Tim to check the map!). This is where we also saw the german couple—still plodding along (but not looking too happy!).
After a short rest, we headed into a brief clearing just short of the little hillock of Creag a Mhadaidh (which is pronounced something like “vatty”). The hillock crowds the lochside; we followed the path around to the east and away from the loch. This was an easy section— a simple, easy trek through an area of open, deciduous woodland.
The loch then appears, as does a cottage (very isolated but inhabited). This is Doune. Not much further on, we arrived in Ardleish. (actually a ruined cottage about 200 yards further north). Carrying on through light woodland, having crossed Ben Glas burn (leaving Argyllshire to re-enter Stirlingshire), we eventually came across Bein Glas Farm and board number 2 (several boards marking progress on the WHW and offering interesting snippets of information).
Bein Glas campsite sits below Ben Glas from which it takes its’ names and the “Grey Mares Tail Waterfall”. It’s a very impressive campsite and obviously caters for the many walkers in the area. It was here that we bought our sorbothane insoles—an absolute revelation! We also bumped into the german couple who had decided to call it a day. It had just been too much for them. It’s a shame that they didn’t stick it out until the end because, in hindsight (and isn’t it a wonderful thing?) the rest of the walk was much easier than the first!
From Bein Glas the vehicle track headed northwards and so taking the WHW into Glen Falloch. We took the path which hugged the River Falloch crossing a mixture of meadows, semi-rough pastures and open woodland. The main A82 road was never more than 400 meters away. After a mile the track followed the glen around a left-hand curve to head northeast. Another mile further on, the path ran adjacent to a picturesque series of water cascades as the Falloch squeezes through a miniature rock gorge.
After passing through several fenced pastures and a couple of isolated cottages (Blackcroft & Derrydarroch), the drover’s road path becomes a little more primitive as the glen starts to look wilder. You can see the mountains such as An Caisteal (“The Castle”), Beinn Chabhair and Cruach Ardrain on your right and on your left are wooded moorland heights that sweep up to the unseen Beinn Dubhcraig (“Black Crag Mountain”). The pastures soon turn to rough grassland, bracken and gorse. The Way crosses to the west bank of the Falloch and two miles short of the head of the glen it dives under the railway by a cattle creep and crosses the road (mind the traffic!) to adopt the course of the original highway through the glen, now a farm track serving the lonely cottage of Keilator.
Once past Keilator the track becomes a forest road. We headed up the tiny Bogle Glen to enter the plantations above Crianlarich. The views of the surrounding countryside were glorious—the River Fillan runs along Glen Dochart towards Loch Tay on the eastern side from crianlarich and the twin mountains of Ben More and Stobinian, the highest in Britain south of the Tay, stand immediately to the right.
The path follows a forest road through a plantation for about 2 miles and reaching a height of about 1,200m. After descending a little path, we crossed a railway and then a road into a short strip of woodland by the river. After a short distance , we crossed another bridge to Kirkton farm on the other side of the glen. Near to Kirkton farm are the ruins of St. Fillan’s Priory and board number 3).
A short walk northwest of Kirkton took us to Auchtertyre Farm and campsite. It was here that we decided to camp for the night. It had hot food and a shower…..it also had all night entertainment (but not the kind you would expect…or want…especially after a long day walking!).
Actually, we were very very lucky with our timing on arriving at the campsite. Literally, as soon as we had arrived, the heavens opened when it began to rain. Fortunately, we’d ordered our hot sausage butties and were in the warmth of the cabin. When the rain abated, we pitched the tent. Once pitched, we went for a shower in the shower block where we took turns to shower under the lovely hot water—bliss!
We thought that we would be able to make the most of the evening but little did we know that this was also the location for our other friends—yes, the Scottish midges again! In fact, other people camping were sitting around a fire totally protected with midge nets / hats. It looked completely weird and it certainly wasn’t our idea of fun.
Once showered and fed, we went to investigate the large marquee and flags on the campsite….oh great, it was only the night / day of the Caledonian Challenge (a charity challenge whereby people run or walk 54 miles within 24 hours). This meant that throughout the whole of the night (oh, yes the WHOLE of the night!) we heard each and every participant being welcomed into the tent. Needless to say we got very little sleep that night.
The only upside of the whole event was that there were serving beer in the marquee—we managed to blag a few pints and then took them to the communal lounge area to drink—what a life we lead eh?
Day 1 (Milngavie – Balmaha) click here
Day 2 (Balmaha – Inversnaid) click here
Day 3 (Inversnaid – Auchtertyre) click here
Day 4 (Auchtertyre – Rannoch Moor) click here
Day 5 (Rannoch Moor – Kinlochleven) click here
Day 6 (Kinlochleven – Fort William) click here
A relaxing 2 days click here
Keels 