Day 2: Balmaha – Inversnaid (just north) 14.5 miles
Balmaha—Rowardennan (7 miles, 11.2km). Total ascent: 373m, total descent: 378m, max height: 88m. Terrain: Good paths or tracks most of the way but can be twisty and undulating in places. Most of the route runs between the road and the shore of Loch Lomond. Short sections on minor roads.
Rowardennan—Inversnaid (7.5 miles, 12km). Total ascent: 544m, total descent: 547m, max height: 149m. Terrain: This stretch is mostly forestry track following the eastern shore of Loch Lomond with occasional diversions onto a rocky path with crags and boulders.
Here we go….
We left the bunkhouse early in the morning after admiring the beautiful views of the loch (and not knowing what was to lie ahead!).
Actually the first part of the walk was very easy— switching between sections of road and sections of woodland skirting the shores of the Loch. It took us into the Ben Lomond National Park and past one of the famous Long Distance “thistle” symbol markers.
After heading along the Craigie Fort road for a short while, we went up a small hill at the centre of the woodland. After walking up, it felt no time at all that we were walking back down again and towards the side of the Loch once more.
Having planned the walk meticulously, we knew that brunch was only a short walk away—at the Cashel campsite just beyond Millarochy. After buying a rather lonely (and unhealthy) loaf of white sliced bread, some dairylea cheese slices and some sliced ham, Tim got the stove going for a mid morning cuppa. It was all the fuel we needed for the next stage and the next few miles of the walk.
After leaving the campsite, the Way followed the road for about half a mile, by the lochside, as far as Sallochy house before it turned left into the most extensive woodland section of the day—the Rowardennan Forest. The path essentially hugged the lochside / shore for about 2 miles until it reached Sallochy Bay where Glasgow University has a field centre and boat house.
Up again to Teac a Mhinisteir through Ross Wood and then back down to the side of the loch where we had excellent views across to Beinn Bhreac (the speckled mountain) north of Glen Luss. Just north of Mill of Ross, the Way reached a small bay opposite Carraig before turning away from the road for the last woodland section of the day. Eventually, after crossing a section of headland, the path turned right and reached the road again just short of a chalet park south of the Rowardennan Hotel—and time for lunch and a welcome break for some tired feet after walking 28 miles (what, only 28 miles?)!
It was also at the Rowardennan Hotel that we caught up with a group of sprightly youngsters who had “sprinted” past us during the morning. One of them was in a particularly bad way—just laid out like lettuce completely exhausted….these youngsters may have the fitness but us “oldies” certainly have the stamina!
It is also worth mentioning at this point that we had also been playing “cat and mouse” with the young german couple who happened to stay in the bunkhouse the same night as ourselves….having chatted to them on some parts of this section, it was clear that they too were struggling.
After gaining a bit more energy, it was on again for the final slog of the day. We hadn’t got a plan of where we were heading other than we would stop when we’d had enough and also where we could find somewhere to wild camp—this was to be Keeley’s first experience of wild camping! It had better be a good spot then!
After leaving the Hotel we walked short distance down the road and past the Youth Hostel. After another short distance (about 3/4 mile), the path turned into forest and along the lochside (recurring theme here!).
We apparently had a choice of paths around the Ptarmigan Lodge area—either the high route or the lower, more scenic but more tricky route. Unfortunately we missed the option and ended up taking the higher route (there is a God!). This higher route did have its’ disadvantages though in that there was nothing scenic to look at—other than trees!
As the path ended, we were just north of the Ben Lomond massif. Across the loch is the village of Tarbet from where a gap in the hills leads to Arrochar at the head of Loch Long. The “Arrochar Alps” – the mountains of Beinn Narnain, Ben Arthur and Beinn Ime – tower over the Arrochar and Tarbet to the north.
After crossing the Cailness burn by a footbridge, the way finally left the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park (first encountered just beyond Drymen). The isolated lodge of Cailness was on the right. We carried along the shingle path for a short distance before arriving at a section of open ground before we entered a stretch of natural woodland. Early evening was coming in on us and the views across the Loch were diminishing—it was time we started to think about pitching up for the night.
The terrain along this section was occasionally rough, with the path hopping up and down over rock outcrops, and with plenty of exposed tree roots waiting to trip you up. In fact some of the larger tree roots were actually quite troublesome and passing through the narrow branches with a large back pack wasn’t an easy job. We even had to take off our rucksack on a couple of occasions in order to get through. Despite these small issues and challenges, the scenery made it worthwhile along with the thought that we would soon be resting for the night!
We eventually came across the Inversnaid Hotel, a massive hotel set in manicured grounds at the foot of Glen Arklet and on the sides of Loch Arklet. Loch Arklet is a reservoir and is dammed, with the result that the issuing stream comes down at a pretty good lick and thunders down into Lomond by a spectacular fall, bridged just to the south of the hotel. After crossing the bridge we decided to stop at the hotel, have a drink, take a comfort break and fill up the water bottles ready for the evening.
Unfortunately the hotel, despite being on the WHW was not a welcoming place for walkers (especially those who had walked 20 or so miles!). There were coachloads of old people who just turned their noses up at us. The hotel staff were not much better and really weren’t that impressed at us walking in the hotel with our walking boots (they weren’t even muddy and we had used the door mat). Anyway, we were paying customers! We had our cokes (our treasure find of the walk!), filled our water bottles and continued on our way.
After leaving the hotel we headed back into the woods (and the toughest section of the WHW). Just 2km north of Inversnaid is the so-called Rob Roy’s Cave. The area is essentially a massive boulder field, a chaos of rocks whose average size is about the same as a family car. The Way clambers up, over and around this boulder field, and access to the cave is somewhat difficult (especially with a large pack on your back!). It was all very interesting….but not that interesting to go and try and find the cave.
Just a short distance along from the cave, we found the perfect spot for our tent!
We pitched up by the side of Loch Lomond for our first night under canvas (and Keeley’s first wild camping experience). It was also the inaugural outing for the Tadpole tent. Camping at the side of Lock Lomond, although beautiful (well, the scenery was!) wasn’t a very glamorous experience. You certainly couldn’t have classed it as glamping!
Being a lightweight and very small two man tent, the Tadpole barely had any room for one, never mind two! Crawling in and out and ensuring our rucksacks were safe and dry was certainly a tight squeeze.
For tea (I’m a northern lass), we tucked into cheese and ham sandwiches foraged from the campsite earlier, after which we then squeezed into our sleeping bags and went to sleep….. if only it had been that easy and simple! With us both being around 5’9” tall, there wasn’t a lot of room and the tent actually tapered towards the bottom. Trying to get into a comfortable sleeping position was a challenge. However, we were tired and although we didn’t have the greatest of sleeps, we just about managed enough!
Day 1 (Milngavie – Balmaha) click here
Day 2 (Balmaha – Inversnaid) click here
Day 3 (Inversnaid – Auchtertyre) click here
Day 4 (Auchtertyre – Rannoch Moor) click here
Day 5 (Rannoch Moor – Kinlochleven) click here
Day 6 (Kinlochleven – Fort William) click here
A relaxing 2 days click here
Keels 